There are hundreds of fashion industry terms, and it takes time to learn them all.
So, in this guide, I narrowed it down to the 18 must-know fashion industry terms.
When I started working in the industry in 2007, these were some of the first terms I became familiar with. Yes, there is a lot more industry lingo out there, but these are the fundamentals I think every beginner should learn to start.
If you’re in need of a quick review of the most essential fashion terminology before a job interview, a freelance fashion designer prepping for a client meeting, or just want to learn the basics for now, this guide is perfect for you!
(Psst… to learn aaalll the terms, I have a complete guide on the 104 Fashion Industry Terms & Abbreviations – also with pictures!)
1. Flat / Flat Sketch / Fashion Flat
A 2-dimensional sketch is usually done in black and white with accurate design details such as stitching, trims, etc. Flat sketches are sometimes filled with color or patterns to show colorways in your tech pack or for presentations.
Learn how to sketch flats in Illustrator with my free course.
Did you know? You can be a freelancer and exclusively offer fashion flats (like two of my Freelance Accelerator: from Surviving to Thriving (FAST) grads, Brittany and Arya). It’s a great way to kickstart your fashion career without any experience.
2. Tech Pack
The instruction manual to create your product (like a set of blueprints). At a minimum, a tech pack includes:
- Tech sketches
- A BOM
- A graded spec
- Colorway specs
- Artwork specs (if relevant)
- A spot for proto / fit / sales sample comments
Example: A tech pack can be used by your factory to create a perfect sample (without them asking any questions). This probably won’t happen and questions are inevitable, but keep the goal in mind: provide thorough instructions that are easy to follow.
Tech packs are best made in spreadsheets like Excel, or with industry software.
Pro Tip: Your tech pack is also used to track approvals, comments, and changes made to the product throughout the development cycle. It acts as a master document that both the factory and the design/development team will reference.
Did you know? You can be a freelancer that exclusively offers tech packs!
3. POM (Point of Measure)
Specific points on your product that are defined and used for measurement. Most often they’re measured on a flat product (not on the body).
Example: A POM code for half chest width may be “across chest 1” down from underarm.”
Pro Tip: POMs are not universal and must be specifically defined. You can create your own definitions and sketches with the help of my Guide on Measuring Garments and Creating Points of Measure (POM).
4. Graded Spec / Grading
Included in your tech pack, the graded spec is a chart of POMs (points of measure) for your product in all sizes. Grading refers to the difference in measurements as sizes go up or down.
Example: If the body length of a size M shirt is 27” and a size L is 28”, the body length grades 1” between sizes.
Pro Tip: Grading is not a perfect science and for production line manufacturing, it should be done by a professional like a pattern maker or technical designer. As certain measurements grade up or down, the grading severity may increase or decrease.
Here’s a guide to get started on grading specs in a tech pack.
5. Tolerance
The allowable variation or deviation from a specified standard or measurement. It’s important in manufacturing to make sure the products meet defined quality criteria within acceptable limits.
I talk more about measurement tolerance in detail here on my Guide on How to Create Graded Specs in a Garment Tech Pack!
6. Colorway
A product in a specific color.
Example: If you offer the same jacket in Olive and Deep Sea, you have 2 colorways.
7. BOM (Bill of Materials)
Part of your tech pack, the BOM is a master list of every physical item required to create your finished product.
Example:
- Fabric (consumption, color, content, construction, weight, etc.)
- Trims / Findings (quantity, color, etc.)
- Hang tags / Labels (quantity, material, color, etc.)
- Packaging (poly bags, hangers, tissue paper, etc.)
Pro Tip: You know the instruction sets you get from Ikea with a list of every item included in the product? That’s kind of like a BOM!
8. Knits
Knit fabrics are made by interlocking yarns in loops, creating a stretchy and flexible textile.
Example: jersey, rib knit, and interlock
Pro Tip: Knit fabrics are ideal for garments that require stretch and flexibility, like activewear and casual wear. They contour to the body and provide comfort and ease of movement.
9. Wovens
Wovens are fabrics created by weaving threads together at right angles, resulting in a more structured and less stretchy material.
Example: cotton, denim, and silk
Pro Tip: Woven fabrics are often used for garments that benefit from structure, such as button-up shirts and tailored pieces. They hold their shape well and are less prone to stretching.
Pro Tip on Knits vs. Wovens: In fashion, knits and wovens stand out as the two main fabric categories. Bigger fashion brands often designate separate roles for knit and woven designers, as each category requires specialized skills and expertise. For instance, you might encounter designers specializing as a men’s knit designer or a woven dress designer.
10. Lab Dip
A small fabric swatch (~2×3 inches) that your factory dyes and submits for color approval to make sure it matches your color standard. Lab dips are typically sent with 2-4 options so you can choose the best match.
Pro Tip: Lab dips should be reviewed in a light box with controlled settings (D65 Daylight is most common) and it’s essential to compare them to other approved submits in addition to the original color standard. Subtle shade or hue variations can be compounded and this will ensure your fuchsia leggings match your fuchsia jacket even if they’re different fabric qualities.
11. Strike-off (S/O)
Printed artwork that the factory submits for approval. It can be for any type of printing (screen, sublimation, etc.) and any type of artwork (repeating pattern, placed/engineered prints, etc.).
Pro Tip: Strike-offs may be submitted on available fabric and ink colors so always ask what you’re approving – color, repeat, layout, hand feel, etc.
Here’s a more thorough Guide on Strike-offs!
12. Proto (Prototype)
A sample to make sure various (or all parts) of the product are executed correctly. Protos are often made with the closest available trims and fabrics and are used to check fit, construction, and detailing.
Pro Tip: Depending on the complexity of your design, factory expertise, and how long you have (or haven’t) worked with them, you may need multiple protos to execute your vision. One or two is standard and three is acceptable. Any more and you may not have a good factory match.
Want more sample examples? Here’s a quick list of the 12 Types of Garment Samples During Apparel Production.
13. CMT (Cut, Make, Trim / Cut & Sew)
A manufacturer who can cut your fabric, make your product, and apply trims (buttons, labels, hang tags, etc). You provide all the raw materials, they do the physical assembly.
Pro Tip: You can save costs and gain control using a CMT vs a FPP (defined below)…but it can also be a lot more work for you since you have to source and coordinate delivery of all physical materials to your CMT.
14. FPP (Full Package Production)
A manufacturer who offers every service you may need from design to pattern drafting and sample making to production. Listen to interviews these interviews on the Fashion Designers Get Paid podcast to learn more about how different FPP providers work:
- Why You Shouldn’t Design for Everyone (with Anna of Vmora)
- How to get Your Designs into Production (with Xochil of The Chicago Patternmaker)
- US vs Overseas Production (with Kathryn of Good Clothing Company)
- How to Get Factories to Take You Seriously (with Kathleen Fasanella of Fashion Incubator)
Pro Tip: The FPP is a one stop shop that can cost you more, but they may not require you to do everything with them. If you have designs and tech packs, they can manage sourcing and production. You may be able to pick and choose just the services you need.
15. MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
The smallest quantity of products a supplier is willing to sell in a single order.
Example: If a manufacturer’s MOQ is 100 units, customers must purchase at least 100 units to complete the order.
16. SKU (Stock Keeping Unit)
A unique code assigned to each different fashion product to facilitate inventory management. SKUs help in tracking products, managing stock levels, and organizing items for efficient storage and retrieval.
Want to learn how to create them? Here’s my Guide on How to Create SKU Numbers in Fashion!
17. PO (Purchase Order)
A document from a buyer to a supplier outlining the specific products, quantities, and prices agreed upon for purchase.
18. Linesheet
A document showcasing a collection, including images, descriptions, and pricing, used for marketing to potential buyers.
Snag my Free Line Sheet Template here!
That’s it! You now know the 18 essential fashion industry terms to get you through your next meeting.
And if you’re up for more, check out my Ultimate Guide on Fashion Industry Terms & Abbreviations.
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