This guide covers all the essential fashion terms you need to know to work in the industry.
If you want a quick fix, you can check out my list of the 18 Must-Know Terms to Work in the Fashion Industry.
Need more beginner-friendly help? Check out my Beginner’s Guide to Fashion Industry Terms for the top must-know terms.
Part 1: Design & Construction
1. Design Process
Collection Line-up
A series of fashion illustrations or technical sketches showcasing the complete ensemble of garments in a fashion collection.
Mood Board
A curated collection of images, colors, and textures designed to inspire a particular feeling or atmosphere, serving as a creative reference for design projects.
Silhouette
The outline or shape of a garment (i.e. pencil, A-line, mermaid).
Trend Board
A compilation of images, patterns, and colors, that reflects design trends.
Check out more examples in my Guide on How to Create a Fashion Trend Board!
2. Technical Design
Flat / Flat Sketch / Fashion Flat
A 2D sketch (usually done in Adobe Illustrator) with accurate design details such as stitching, trims, etc.
Technical Sketch
A flat sketch with text callouts to specify various design details.
Color Standard
Colorway
A product in a specific color/s.
Tech Pack
A blueprint that communicates everything a manufacturer needs to create your garment. Tech packs include flats, measurements, construction details, BOM, and more.
BOM (Bill of Materials)
Part of your tech pack, the BOM is a master list of every physical item required to create your finished product. This includes fabric, trims, labels, and packaging.
UOM (Unit of Measure)
The type of measurement used for various items or parts of your product. For example, “yard” or “meter” for fabrics and “inches” or “centimeter” for measurement.
Graded Spec
Included in your tech pack, it’s a chart of POMs (Points of Measure) for your product in all sizes.
Grading
The difference in measurements as sizes go up or down. For example, if the body length of a size M shirt is 27” and a size L is 28”, the body length grades 1” between sizes.
3. Points of Measure (POMs)
POM (Point of Measure)
Specific points on a garment that are defined and used for measurement. Most often they’re measured on a flat product (not on the body).
CF (Center Front)
The center of your garment running vertically along the front.
CB (Center Back)
The center of your garment running vertically along the back.
A/H (Armhole)
The opening in a garment where the arm fits through.
HPS (High Point Shoulder)
The highest point of the shoulder on your garment, not including any part of the collar.
SS (Side Seam)
The seam that runs along the side of your garment. Some garments like leggings or circular knit sweaters may not have a side seam.
CP (Crotch Point)
Where the inseam and the front / back rise meet.
TM (Total Measure)
The total measurement from one point to another.
4. Pattern Making
Pattern Block
A basic pattern that is used as a foundation to develop other styles. Some also call this a sloper.
Dress Form
A human-shaped model usually made of foam, fiberglass, or plastic. It’s used by designers and sewers to create and adjust clothing. It helps make sure clothes fit well and look good by providing a realistic body shape to work with.
5. Construction
Knits
Knit fabrics are made by interlocking yarns in loops, creating a stretchy and flexible textile (i.e. jersey, rib knit, and interlock). Knit fabrics are ideal for garments that require stretch and flexibility, like activewear and casual wear.
Wovens
Wovens are fabrics created by weaving threads together at right angles, resulting in a more structured and less stretchy material (i.e. cotton, denim, and silk). Woven fabrics are often used for garments such as button-up shirts and tailored pieces. They hold their shape well and are less prone to stretching.
Pro Tip: Knits and wovens stand out as the two main fabric categories in fashion. Fashion brands usually designate separate roles for knit and woven designers, as each category requires specialized skills and expertise.
SPI / SPC (Stitches per Inch / Centimeter)
The number of stitches per inch / centimeter.
SA (Seam Allowance)
The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitch line. The amount usually varies from ¼” to ⅝”.
SNTS (Single Needle Topstitch)
A finishing stitch that is done on top of the product with a single needle.
DNTS (Double Needle Topstitch)
A finishing stitch that is done on top of the product with a double needle to create two parallel stitches.
LS (Lockstitch)
The most common stitch done with a single needle on a machine using a top thread and a bottom thread that are “locked” together.
CS (Coverstitch)
A double or triple needle stitch on one side and “zig zag” loops on the other. The loop side is often inside the garment and is used to “cover” raw edges, but in activewear it may be on the outside as a design detail.
US (Understitch)
A sewing technique where the seam allowance is stitched to the facing or lining, preventing it from rolling to the garment’s exterior and helping maintain a smooth, polished edge.
TPST (Topstitch)
Stitching on the top side of a product as a decorative feature.
EGST (Edgestitch)
Stitching parallel to a seam edge on the top side of a product. Often done to secure a serged seam flat or a set-on detail (i.e. pocket) and create a more finished look.
CNST (Chainstitch)
A series of stitches that loop together like a chain.
Seam
A line where two pieces of fabric are stitched together, creating a join in a garment.
Flat Fell Seam
A sturdy seam where the raw edges of the fabric are enclosed by folding one side over the other and stitching them closed together. It’s commonly used in denim or sportswear for durability.
Inseam
The seam that runs along the inner leg of pants or trousers, connecting the front and back panels.
Dart
A triangular fold or tuck in the fabric used to add shape and contour to a garment. Often seen in the bust, waist, or back areas.
Bias / Bias Cut
Fabric cut diagonally across the grain, allowing it to drape gracefully and follow the wearer’s natural curves.
Ease
The slight addition of extra fabric to a garment pattern to allow for comfortable movement and a relaxed fit.
Selvedge
The self-finished edge of a fabric, preventing fraying or unraveling, often found on high-quality fabrics.
Grainline
The direction of the threads in a woven fabric, typically aligned parallel to the selvedge.
Warp
The threads that run vertically in a woven fabric, from the top to the bottom. Runs parallel to the selvedge.
Weft
The threads that run horizontally, from side to side, in a woven fabric. Runs perpendicular to the selvedge.
I keep warp and weft straight by remembering that “weft” is side to side, like “left” to right.
GG (Gauge)
The number of knit stitches per finished inch. A smaller gauge (1GG) will be a chunkier knit and a larger gauge (16GG) will be a finer knit. Learn how to measure gauge here.
Part 2: Manufacturing & Logistics
1. Production Process
MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
The smallest quantity of products a supplier is willing to sell in a single order. If a manufacturer’s MOQ is 100 units, customers must purchase at least 100 units to complete the order.
Lead Time
The time it takes from placing an order to receiving the goods.
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim / Cut & Sew)
A manufacturer who can cut your fabric, make your product, and apply trims (buttons, labels, hang tags, etc.). You provide all the raw materials, they do the physical assembly.
FPP (Full Package Production)
A manufacturer who offers every service you may need from design to pattern drafting and sample making to production.
ODM (Original Design Manufacturer)
An ODM is a company that specializes in creating clothing items based on specific design requirements provided by another brand. For example, a fashion brand may collaborate with an ODM to produce a unique line of dresses according to their custom design specifications.
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)
A manufacturer that produces clothing items to be sold by another brand under the latter’s label. For example, a fashion brand may partner with an OEM to manufacture a collection of garments using the manufacturer’s existing specs.
Dropshipping
A retail fulfillment method where a store doesn’t keep the products it sells in stock. Instead, when a store sells a product, it purchases the item from a third party and has it shipped directly to the customer.
COO (Country of Origin)
The country that a product is produced in. If fabric is imported from Taiwan and trims come from China, but the product is cut and sewn in the USA, your COO is USA.
WIP (Work in Progress / Process)
Goods that are in the process of being made at the factory but not finished. These goods are not counted as part of inventory yet.
Marker
A template or pattern layout that guides the efficient cutting of fabric, minimizing waste. It helps optimize the use of materials during the production process.
Assembly Line
A streamlined manufacturing process where garments are systematically assembled by workers at different stages along a conveyor belt. Each person does a particular task to quickly and efficiently make many clothes of the same kind. For example, one person is tasked with sewing the sleeves, the next adds buttons, and so on.
Lab Dip
A small fabric swatch (~2” x 3”) that your factory dyes and submits for color approval to make sure it matches your color standard. Lab dips are typically sent with 2-4 options so you can choose the best match.
Strike-off (S/O)
Printed artwork that the factory submits for approval. It can be for any type of printing (screen, sublimation, etc.) and any type of artwork (repeating pattern, placed/engineered prints, etc.).
Head End / Header
A larger swatch of fabric (~8×8 inches) that is cut from the bulk bolt for your approval. It should match the approved lab dip in color and be the correct quality, weight and construction.
Knit Down (K/D)
Knit fabric that the factory submits for knit structure, design and layout approval.
Handloom
Woven fabric that the factory submits for construction, design and layout approval before bulk fabric is made. Handlooms are manually on a machine called a handloom (yes, both the fabric swatch and the machine are called handlooms).
Greige
Fabric that has been knit or woven but not yet bleached, dyed, or finished. The term is a combo of the words “gray” and “beige” because it’s usually that color!
2. Sample Making
Proto (Prototype)
A sample to make sure various (or all parts) of the product are executed correctly. Protos are often made with the closest available trims and fabrics and are used to check fit, construction, and detailing.
PP (Pre-Production Sample)
The last sample sent for approval before production begins. It should be 100% correct for fit, design, color, trims, etc. It’s your last chance to make changes or catch mistakes.
TOP (Top of Production Sample)
A sample pulled from the top of the production line. It’s used as a reference for what bulk production should look like.
Size Run
A set of samples in the full range of sizes offered. Size runs should be measured flat and tried on fit models to make sure they fit well in all sizes.
Fit Model
A person who maintains their physical size and tries on products to make sure it fits well. They are typically not “standard” runway model size, but rather the size of your customer.
Fit Size
The middle size in your size range. It is the default size that will be used for protos and other samples. If your size range is 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, your fit size may be 6 or 8.
Sample Size
The size your SMS (salesman samples) come in. It may be the same as your fit size, but not always. Some designers choose a smaller size as it can look more appealing on a hanger, whereas some designers choose an average size so buyers can try it on.
SMS (Salesman Sample)
A sample product in correct fabrics, trims, colors and fit used by a salesperson to sell and book orders or pre-orders (before production is made).
Want to know more about garment protos? Here’s a list of the 12 Types of Garment Samples During Apparel Production.
3. Shipping & Logistics
Packing List
A list of all the items in a shipment, specifying quantities, sizes, and descriptions of each product. It helps in tracking and verifying the contents of packages.
Duty
A tax or tariff on goods that are transported across international borders. Tax rates are determined by HTS Code and vary tremendously based on product content, performance features, etc.
HTS Code (Harmonized Tariff Schedule)
Codes that are used to classify internationally traded goods. HTS codes determine the duty rate.
FF (Freight Forwarder)
A third party service that manages shipping and importing. This includes freight logistics, insurance and duty (with correct HTS categorization).
FOB (Freight on Board)
Pricing that includes material, labor and transportation to the COO (Country of Origin) exit port, but excludes shipping, duty, insurance or taxes. All costs and liabilities after exit port arrival are your responsibility.
LDP (Landed Duty Paid) / DDP (Delivered Duty Paid)
Pricing that includes all costs to produce and deliver the product to you. The factory (seller) is responsible for all costs and liabilities until the product is in your possession.
FGP (Factory Gate Pricing) / EXW (Ex-Warehouse)
Pricing of the product available for pick up by you (the buyer) at the factory. FGP / EXW excludes any transportation costs.
SKU (Stock Keeping Unit)
A unique code assigned to each different fashion product to facilitate inventory management. SKUs help in tracking products, managing stock levels, and organizing items for efficient storage and retrieval.
4. Quality Control
Tolerance
The allowable variation or deviation from a specified standard or measurement. It’s important in manufacturing to make sure the products meet defined quality criteria within acceptable limits.
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level)
A predetermined standard representing the maximum acceptable number of defects or deviations in a batch of products during quality control inspections.
ISO (International Organization for Standardization)
A global body that develops and publishes standards to ensure the quality, safety, and efficiency of products, services, and systems across various industries.
Part 3: Fashion Business & Retail
1. Costing & Sales
PO (Purchase Order)
A purchase order is a document from a buyer to a supplier outlining the specific products, quantities, and prices agreed upon for purchase.
COGS (Cost of Goods Sold)
The total cost incurred to produce a fashion item, including manufacturing, materials, and labor. For example, if a brand produces a jacket, the COGS would include all expenses directly tied to making that jacket. This could be things such as the cost of fabric, manufacturing labor, buttons, zippers, and any other materials used in its production.
Cost Sheet
A document detailing all costs associated with producing a fashion item, helping in pricing decisions. Here’s my Free Cost Sheet Template if you need one!
MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price)
The recommended selling price set by the fashion item’s manufacturer.
Markup
The percentage or amount added to the production cost to determine the final selling price. Let’s say a fashion brand makes a jacket for $50. If they want to make a 50% profit on top of the production cost, they add a 50% markup. So, the selling price would be $75 ($50 production cost + $25 markup). The markup is the extra amount added to cover costs and make a profit.
Profit Margin
The percentage of profit a fashion item generates, calculated as a proportion of the selling price.
Landed Cost
The total cost of a fashion item, including production, shipping, and other associated costs.
Target Cost
The desired cost at which a fashion item should be produced to meet profitability goals.
POS (Point of Sale)
The location or system where customers make purchases, such as a physical store or online platform. For example, if you go to a store, pick out a shirt, and pay for it at the cash register, that cash register is the Point of Sale (POS).
B2B (Business-to-Business)
Transactions and relationships between two business entities. For example, a fabric manufacturer (Business A) sells its materials to a fashion design company (Business B). It’s a B2B (Business to Business) arrangement, where one business supplies goods to another.
B2C or D2C (Business-to-Consumer or Direct-to-Consumer)
Transactions and relationships between fashion businesses and end consumers. For example, a clothing store (Business A) sells directly to individual customers (Consumers). When you buy a shirt from the store, it’s a B2C (Business to Consumer) transaction.
Carryover
In the fashion industry, “carryover” refers to products or styles from a previous season that continue to be available for sale in the current or upcoming season. These are items that were not exclusive to a particular season but have proven to be popular or versatile enough to extend their shelf life.
2. Marketing & Branding
Linesheet
A document showcasing a collection, including images, descriptions, and pricing, used for marketing to potential buyers. Snag my Free Line Sheet Template here!
Brand Identity
The unique visual and conceptual elements that distinguish a fashion brand, including logos, colors, and messaging.
Target Market
The specific demographic or audience a fashion brand aims to reach and appeal to.
Trademarks
Legal protections for unique symbols, names, or designs associated with a fashion brand.
3. Fashion Events
Press Event
A gathering for media professionals, influencers, and insiders to learn about and cover a fashion brand or event.
Pop-up Shop
A temporary retail space where fashion brands can showcase and sell their products for a short period.
Product Launch
An occasion to introduce and showcase new products such as fashion designs or collections.
Runway Show
A key event in the fashion industry where models walk down a designated runway, showcasing the latest clothing and accessories from a designer.
Trunk Show
An event where fashion designers or brands display and sell their products directly to consumers.
Trade Show
An exhibition where fashion brands showcase their products to potential wholesale buyers, retailers, and industry professionals.
You’ve made it to the end – and now you’ve got a solid foundation of fashion terms and abbreviations to speak the industry language.
Remember, it’s ok not to know everything, and don’t feel like you have to memorize it all.
Just say, “I’ve never heard that term before, could you explain what it means?” or, “Oh, I’ve heard that, but always forget what it means – what is it again?”
