In the fashion industry, there’s a zillion ways you can customize your designs – one of these is through custom fabric printing.  The 6 most common types of printing are screen, roller, digital, heat transfer, dye sublimation, and block.

In my 10+ year long career as a freelance fashion designer, I did a lot of work in the activewear and lifestyle categories. I used sublimation, roller and screen printing with most of my clients. These types of prints allowed us to get the designs and colors we wanted while also being functional for the end use case.

Let’s dive into the basics of fabric printing and go over each of these commonly used printing techniques in details so you can find the best ones for you designs. Educate yourself on the basics first, and then work with your manufacturer to finalize the decision on the best print method to use!

What is Fabric Printing in Fashion?

Fabric printing, also known as textile printing, is an essential element in the fashion industry. It offers fashion designers and brands a blank canvas to translate their creative visions through different customization methods.

You’ve probably seen renowned designer brands with their signature fabric prints and styles – like Versace’s bold prints, Marimekko’s Unikko pattern, Louis Vuitton’s monogram canvas, and so many more. These are all possible because of the limitless bounds of fabric printing. 

You can have the simplest dress silhouette but give it a unique and eye-catching print, and it can turn into a one of a kind masterpiece.

And of course, the use of print in fashion extends not only to artistic expression but also offers practical benefits. I’m pretty sure you’re familiar with the camouflage pattern (that also became a design trend some time ago 👀).

It goes deeper than that, as certain types of fabric prints carry cultural significance, serving as symbols of identity expression for communities worldwide.

How is Printed Fabric Made?

Fashion designers, or more often textile designers, create pattern renders using software applications like Adobe Illustrator or Adobe Photoshop.

Once the design is locked in, the next call is picking the right fabric and the ideal printing method. It’s crucial to find the right combination of the two and make sure the two are compatible – avoiding any fabric quality issues and print defects along the way. 

To make sure that these prints are of top-notch quality and last long, some fabrics may also undergo pre-treatment or finishing techniques to lock those prints in. These processes ensure that the pigments adhere properly during printing and will not fade off or bleed.

So, if you’ve had your garments all turn red after laundry day, chances are, that’s the poor quality crimson shirt that you bought for 80% off! 

And just like how garments undergo a sample review process, fabric prints may also undergo several rounds of sampling to get the desired final outcome. 

In manufacturing lingo, we call this the print strike off – a test print of a design or print on fabric, allowing fashion designers and manufacturers to check the design accuracy, assess color and quality, confirm fabric compatibility, and make any necessary adjustments before finally proceeding with full-scale production.

6 Common Types of Fabric Printing Methods 

There are dozens of ways to create custom fabric prints, and it can become overwhelming.

So, we’ll cover the 6 most common types of textile printing methods in the fashion industry. I’ll talk about how each method is done, what type of products they’re commonly used in, along with some pros and cons that you’ll need to consider.

1. Screen Printing

Screen printing or stencil printing is one of the most common types of fabric printing methods. It involves creating a stencil (screen) for each color in the design and then using a squeegee to push ink through the screen onto the fabric. 

This printing technique is known for giving off vibrant, long-lasting prints. There are a few types of screen printing techniques, such as rotary screen printing and flat screen printing.

Suitable for: T-shirts, sweatshirts, scarves

Advantages: 

• Cost-effective for large orders
• High color vibrancy and durability
• Suitable for both simple and complex designs

Disadvantages: 

• Setup costs can be high for multiple colors
• Not ideal for small runs due to setup time
• Limited color gradients and fine details

2. Roller Printing 

Roller printing involves the use of engraved metal rollers to apply consistent and intricate patterns onto fabric. These rollers are coated with ink and pressed onto the fabric as it passes through a series of rollers.

Suitable for: Various types of products such as dresses, skirts, and blouses

Advantages: 

• Allows for intricate and continuous patterns
• Efficient for large-scale production due to its continuous printing process
• Consistent and high-quality results

Disadvantages: 

• Limited flexibility for custom or one-off designs 
• High setup costs for creating custom rollers

3. Digital Printing

Digital printing is a modern fabric printing method that works much like your home ink-jet printer but on a larger scale. It allows fashion designers to create intricate, full-color designs directly onto fabric with precision and detail – making it a versatile choice for creating custom clothing and accessories.

Suitable for: Custom clothing like t-shirts, dresses, leggings, and personalized accessories like scarves and hats

Advantages: 

• Low setup costs, ideal for small runs
• High color vibrancy and detail
• Quick turnaround time

Disadvantages: 

• Cost per unit can be high for larger orders
• Limited to fabric types compatible with the printer

4. Heat Transfer Printing

Heat transfer printing involves printing the design onto a certain type of transfer paper and then heat-pressing it onto fabric. If you’ve ever gotten a customized shirt or mug with your company logo on it – chances are it was made using this method.

Suitable for: Various personalized clothing items like custom T-shirts, jerseys, and sportswear

Advantages: 

• Ideal for low to medium runs
• Suitable for complex designs and full-color prints
• Quick turnaround time

Disadvantages: 

• Prints may crack or fade over time
• Not as durable as some other methods

5. Dye Sublimation Printing

Dye sublimation printing uses heat to transfer dyes onto the fabric, creating vibrant and durable prints. It has no size constraints and works well with synthetic fabrics (like nylon, acrylic, and spandex), but is not suitable for natural fibers due to the high temperatures involved in the heat press procedure.

Suitable for: Sportswear, swimwear, outdoor apparel

Advantages: 

• High color vibrancy and durability
• Excellent for all-over prints
• Ideal for synthetic fabrics

Disadvantages: 

• Not suitable for natural fibers like cotton
• Requires specific equipment and materials

6. Block Printing 

Block printing is a traditional method using carved blocks to apply ink onto fabric. It’s known for its handmade and artisanal appeal – but, it’s not the quickest way to make lots of items as it is often done manually by skilled artisans.

Suitable for: Artisanal and bohemian style clothing and accessories

Advantages: 

• Unique, rustic appearance 
• Low setup costs
• Suitable for small-scale production

Disadvantages: 

• Time-consuming for large orders 
• Limited to simple designs
• Requires skilled artisans

Can I Make a Career Out of Designing Fabric Prints?

If you’ve ever considered making a career out of designing fabric, fabric print design is a great niche to get started in the fashion industry (even in freelancing!). 

You can take a look at the story of freelance textile designer Katerina who does her DREAM JOB creating vibrant custom prints for startups and small brands worldwide. Now, she’s earning way more than she did in her full time job WHILE having the freedom to travel between her family in Macedonia and partner in Italy.

If you’re interested in this area of freelance fashion design, I dive into aaalll its intricacies in my Step by Step Guide to Becoming a Textile Designer.

Importance of Knowing Fabric Printing Methods as a Fashion Designer

As a fashion designer, understanding various fabric printing methods gives you limitless creative potential. 

Becoming well-versed with various fabric printing techniques also helps you make smarter decisions – streamlining your design and development process.

Whether it’s selecting fabrics or planning collections, you now understand the pros and cons of each method, and which one is the most suitable for your ideas. 

So, consider this your go-to resource for exploring your fabric printing options.