This guide covers the 8 essential stitches used in garment construction, when to use them, and how to spec them in tech packs (plus what to do if you don’t know what a stitch is called!).
Table of Contents
8 Essential Types Of Garment Stitches And When to Use Them (with photos)
All stitches in garment manufacturing fit into these 6 categories:
- Class 100: Single-Thread Chain Stitch
- Class 200: Hand Stitch
- Class 300: Lockstitch
- Class 400: Multi-Thread Chain Stitch
- Class 500: Over Edge Chain Stitch
- Class 600: Covering Chain Stitch
Under these are hundreds of stitches and stitch variations. You don’t need to know them all, and you’ll learn more with time. You can even just ask your manufacturer, “what kind of stitch do you suggest here,” or send them a photo and say, “use this stitch.”
Here are the 8 most common types:
- Lockstitch (Class 300)
- Zigzag Stitch (Class 300)
- Chain Stitch (Class 100)
- Overlock Stitch (Class 500)
- Cover Stitch (Class 400)
- Blind Stitch (Class 100)
- Buttonhole Stitch (Class 300)
- Bar Tack Stitch (Class 300)
How To Callout Stitches In Tech Packs
Create effective stitch callouts for your tech packs by specifying:
- Stitch type
- SPI (number of Stitches per Inch, calculated by stitch length)
- Needle specs (will it use single, double, or even, triple-needle?)
- Thread color
- Thread type
- Location
In your tech pack or spec sheet this might look like:
- “This detail requires hand stitching as per the sample sent”
- “Topstitch the hem at 10 SPI using contrasting thread”
- “Double needle topstitching at the collar edge”
What To Do When You Don’t Know The Type Of Stitch To Use For Garment Construction
1. Look at similar garments in the market.
If you’re designing a denim jacket, look at other denim jackets. Pay attention to their stitching details – how are they constructed? What types of stitches do they use? You can even use photos of these details as construction callouts in your tech packs.
2. Ask your factory what the stitch is called.
They are a wealth of knowledge and can help educate you on stitch types best practices for garment construction, and are happy to share insights.
3. Include a photo of the stitch (or send a cutting if you can!).
In the construction callouts section of your tech pack, make an arrow and say “make it like this” – as simple as that! This method allows manufacturers to see exactly what kind of stitch you want, even if neither party knows its official name. If you can send the real sample, better.
The book Garment Manufacturing Technology is also a great resource that delves into the intricacies of garment production. It also dives deep into the classes of garment stitches and their applications.
Alright! You now know the basic types of stitches for garment construction and how to spec them in tech packs.
By familiarizing yourself with common stitches, understanding their applications, and communicating stitching requirements, the production process will go much smoother.
(And remember, you don’t need to know every single type of stitch – use the workarounds I shared to make sure your designs are made right!)
