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30 Tips to Improve Your Garment Tech Pack (from 40+ technical designers)

In April 2024, I surveyed over 40 fashion and technical designers to gather tips on how to improve tech packs. Even with my 15+ years working in the fashion industry, I found new insights that were incredibly helpful. 

Alongside the valuable insights shared by these industry pros, I’ve also threaded in some personal tips that have proven effective throughout my work in fashion design.

Some advice might be subjective, and you’ll even see a few opposing opinions, but I’ll let you be the judge.

DISCLAIMER: If you have zero clue on how to make tech packs, this is NOT the guide for you. These tips are meant for those who already know the basics (including what tech pack software to use) and want to up their game. 

If you’re just starting out, my step-by-step guide on tech packs is a good place to begin.

Top 30 Tips to Improve Your Fashion Tech Packs

Technical Sketch Tips

1. Use Garment Photos for Reference

While you might prefer a clean tech pack complete with technical sketches made from scratch, sometimes it’s easier to include existing photos to show complex construction

If you have existing garment photo references with similar construction or details, add those images for clarity. – Heidi (me!)

Drawcord Reference Photo

2. Create Detail Sketches

Include detail sketches of any special design constructions including different views (including side and inside). If a particular detail is crucial for the garment, dedicate an entire page to it. Apparel tech packs are subjective and vary with each garment, so address the specific needs of your design. 

If you can’t illustrate and communicate clearly how you want something to work, then the factory can only make the best guess. – Courtney E., Director of Design & Innovation

Crotch Gusset Spec Sheet

3. Draw Your Technical Sketches in True Proportions

Draw your sketches in true scale and proportion so you can quickly go there and double check some basic measurements, print sizes, placements, etc. Not 100% accurate but I find it very helpful and it functions as an extra shield on avoiding mistakes. – Afroditi M., Freelance Fashion Designer

4. Start with Full Scale Sketches

Something that’s really important in my tech packs as a handbag designer (we generally do tech packs in Ai!) is to start from full scale sketches of all views of the style and include all those full scale sketches on a final page. – Aleksandra L., Freelance Handbag Designer

5. Create Symbols in Adobe Illustrator

For repeating illustrations, create symbols in Adobe Illustrator. This way, any changes you make to one illustration will automatically update in all instances. 

For example, if you have a tech sketch on the cover page and on the spec sheet page, any updates on one instance will reflect on both pages. It’s easier to explain this process in a video, so here’s a quick tutorial. – Heidi

Adobe Illustrator Symbols Window

Spec Sheet Tips

1. Include POM Diagrams

Add Points of Measure (POM) diagrams to flats to show where the measurement is taken. Include the code (number or letter) that matches up with the POM on the graded specs. It takes a little extra time upfront but saves a TON of time clarifying later on. – Liz W., Freelance Childrenswear Designer

Additionally, instead of just saying “#3 Across Back” in the POM list, explain exactly where that POM is taken from on the garment (i.e. #3 Across Back: Measure width from armhole to armhole, 4″ below HPS). Across Back could be taken from anywhere; avoid the confusion. – Marco B., Technical Apparel Designer & Developer

How to Measure Guide for T-Shirts

Heidi’s Note: Love this tip! I always used a POM manual or How to Measure Guide. From there, you can reference codes and only need to spec them in the TP when that garment has really specific or unique codes. When you’re doing large collections with a lot of crossover in body styles, it’s a pain if you’ve got the POM diagrams in every fashion tech pack and then something changes… I really love decoupling when possible.

2. Use Fabric Maps

A fabric map is an illustration where the fabrics assigned to the garment are displayed using color blocking. I prefer to put this on a separate page as it helps the manufacturer or sample maker visualize fabric usage without getting distracted by other details. – Heidi

Tech Pack Fabric Map

3. Color Code Stitch Types

In addition to writing the exact ISO stitch name and ISO number, on the flat sketch (ex. 1/8″ 2 NDL BOTTOM CS [406]), I color code by stitch. So for the previously mentioned stitch, I would make the color green. Then, I have a “Stitch Legend” next to the flats that have the ISO stitch sketch, along with a color reference to the stitch on the flat. Having the tech pack all in one color can be hard to process. – Marco B., Technical Apparel Designer & Developer

4. Incorporate ASTM Codes and Diagrams

I like to use ASTM seam and stitch codes + diagrams in my callouts. A picture is worth a thousand words. – Alison H., Freelance Patternmaker

5. Specify Interfacing Requirements

Interfacing – if you don’t ask for it, you won’t get it. If you don’t specify the type/quality, you allow the factory to choose and that can affect the cost too. I like to include a diagram as well as a written note to show whether both sides of the (i.e. shirt collar) are fused with the interfacing or just the top side/bottom side. – Kirsty A., Freelance Fashion Designer

6. Clarify Label Orientation

When I add any type of label with a text, I always point with an arrow the direction that the text should read even if it is visible on the label itself. I also clarify which is the front and back view of the label. I learned this the hard way when a whole bunch came from a factory with a sew on tag reading backwards. – Afroditi M., Freelance Fashion Designer

7. Provide Pantone and Thread Colors

Add sample Pantone colors if possible, especially if there are contrast colors. Include thread colors. – Rozalba K., Freelance Fashion Designer & Consultant

Providing these details upfront reduces the risk of color discrepancies.

8. Keep Callouts Concise

Don’t overdo texts while doing callouts. Include concise texts with enough space in the page. – Arya M., Freelance Fashion Designer

Overloading the callouts with excessive text can make the tech pack cluttered and hard to read. Clear and succinct instructions ensure that the essential information stands out, making it easier for the manufacturer to understand and follow your specifications.

T-Shirt Spec Sheet

Tech Pack Organization Tips

1. Separate Page for Labels and Packaging

Labels and packaging makes a good page. Include folding instructions and bag size for shipping. – Camille S., Professor & Author of Technical Sourcebook for Apparel Designers

Heidi’s Note: Yep yep! I heard a horror story once from a friend who had her own small brand. Her TPs didn’t have packing instructions and the garments literally showed up in black trash bags. 🫠 If it needs to be on a hanger, or folded with tissue, or the tag should be attached at the back neck vs placket, you have to clarify that in your apparel tech pack!

2. Avoid Repetition

Do not repeat information in multiple places. Doing so increases risk of errors. Each element in an apparel tech pack has a designated place. It will also train the factory where to always look for specific information. – Nicki S., Product Development Sourcing Manager

3. Do Not Duplicate Measurements in Different Sections

Similarly, avoid having the same measurements in TWO places. 

For example, if your BOM states the neck rib is 3/4″ don’t repeat it on the measurement page. It’s a mistake waiting to happen, especially if the POM gets revised in one location and not the other. – Brian L., Apparel Product Development Consultant

4. Simplify Graded Specs

Clean up grade pages by removing POMs that don’t grade. Non-grading POMs are best communicated on the sketch. Waistband height is one example. There is no reason to put that on a grade page, it’s 1 1/4″ for all sizes. Brian L., Apparel Product Development Consultant

5. Include Key Info on Every Page

Include the style number, garment name, and fabric on every page. – Arya M., Freelance Fashion Designer

Having these details on every page ensures that all crucial information is readily available, reducing the risk of confusion or mix-ups.

6. Number Tech Pack Pages

Number your tech pack pages as 1 of 10, 2 of 10, etc. This helps the factory collect all the pages back together if they happened to distribute specific pages to specific departments.

I always ask factories to return the full tech pack with their notes along with their sample submission. Numbering the pages in this way helps them make sure they have collected all the pages back, to attach onto the finished sample before shipping. It’s hard enough to find all the pages and reassemble the tech pack in a busy factory. Help them know they have collected 10 of 10 pages by numbering your pages that way. If the page only reads “page 10” they have no idea if a page 11 even exists and is floating around the factory. – Brian L., Apparel Product Development Consultant

7. Use a Cover Sheet with Revision History

Use some kind of cover sheet or index page that also shows the revision history (in addition to the comments page, of course). – Belinda J., Technical Designer & Product Developer

Hoodie Tech Pack Cover Sheet

8. Include Revision Notes

Always include points for revision notes and changes. – Arya M., Freelance Fashion Designer

This helps track updates and modifications, ensuring that everyone involved is aware of the most current specifications. It also provides a clear record of how the tech pack has evolved.

Tech Pack Evaluation Sheet

9. Organize Previous Tech Packs

It helps me go faster to have all my previously made tech packs in a folder divided by category. When I need to create a new one, I start by opening a similar looking style (if I have one) and then edit it from there. 

It also helps with catching details you might’ve missed if otherwise starting from scratch, and with some detailed pictures you might already have used in another tech pack as well. 

I also keep all my construction and trim images and information in a separate file and have that open while creating the TP for easy copy and paste when making TPs. – Alina S., Freelance Contemporary Fashion Designer

Additional Tech Pack Tips

1. Send Reference Samples

Sending reference samples to the manufacturer is more common than you might think. If you’re designing a windbreaker and want to replicate certain parts of that garment, just send it directly to the manufacturer. This saves time on overcomplicated illustrations and allows you to show exactly what you want. – Heidi

2. Use Alibaba for References

I comb Alibaba for images and industry specific terms to put in my tech packs. – Krystal L., CEO of Black Unicorn Merchandising

3. Clarify Potential Issues Upfront

Answer questions before they are asked. Most communication involves time change so there’s at least a 1 day delay. Anything you can anticipate as a sticking point, just spend the extra minutes to clarify it upfront. – Sherri H., Project & Product Manager / Technical Design Expert

4. Update Tech Pack Based on Factory Questions

When I send a tech pack for sampling or costing, if the factory asks me ANY questions I will add that into my tech pack template somewhere so I have fewer emails to answer going forward. – Krystal L., CEO of Black Unicorn Merchandising

5. Provide All Necessary Information 

I know some people say you can have too much information, but I think if you have experience working with factories and know the exact details you need, add extra pages to clearly show details, if possible even add flat shots of the pattern pieces marking out where things should be. Assumption can be a costly thing and not all factories ask questions. – Philippa C., Freelance Technical Outerwear Product Developer & Pattern Cutter

6. Simplify Instructions

Think through each and every nook and corner of the garment, as detailed but as clear and simple, so that even a 5 year old would be able to understand. – Poonkuzzhali PK, Founder & Freelance Fashion Designer at Studio PKP

7. Follow Up with Video Calls

Always follow with a video call with the factory to talk through every single detail on the tech pack. It’s amazing how many things can be misunderstood even though everything is written down.

Don’t forget that English is not normally the manufacturer’s first language , so a 1-on-1 video call can clear up any misunderstandings. – Eirini S., Freelance Childrenswear & Baby Designer

8. Learn More About Garment Construction

The more understanding the technical designer or fashion designer has about how the garment will be made, the better they can accurately communicate that to the factory. – Alison H., Freelance Patternmaker

That sums up all the tech pack tips to help streamline your design process!

Here’s the LinkedIn post if you want to read what everyone shared or chime in on the discussion!

About the Author

Heidi {Sew Heidi}

With no fashion degree or connections, Heidi’s start in the industry was with her own brand. By her mid-20s, she had grown it to $40,000+ in revenue. Despite that ‘success,’ she was left broke and burnt. Next, she landed her dream fashion design job at a lifestyle brand in Denver, CO. But the toxic offices gave her too much anxiety. So, in 2009, she started her business as a freelance fashion designer. After a lot of trial and error (she literally made $0 in her first year!), she figured out how to find well-paying clients, have freedom in her day, and make money doing the work she loved in fashion. She grew her freelance business to $100,000+ a year working a comfortable 35 hours a week. In 2013, Heidi started Successful Fashion Designer. She has reached hundreds of thousands of fashion designers, TDs, PDs, pattern makers, and more around the world through her educational videos, podcast episodes, books, live trainings, and more. Heidi’s signature program, Freelance Accelerator: from Surviving to Thriving (FAST) has generated over $1 Million in revenue and helped almost 1,000 fashion designers escape toxic jobs and do work they love in fashion.

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