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Create A Graded Spec From Existing (often competitor) Garments
One of the most common ways to create graded specs for a tech pack is measuring existing garments. Some fashion brands buy and measure a size range of competitor garments to create their graded specs, making adjustments as needed for details or fit.
For example, if I want to create a graded spec for leggings, I might buy a size 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 of Lululemon leggings. I would measure and record various Points of Measure (POMs) like the waist, inseam, outseam, etc, to create my base graded spec. Then, I would adjust measurements to compensate for unique design or fit details for my garment to ensure they grade how I want.
However, if the garment is unique and similar styles can’t be found, brands may work with a pattern maker to develop and sew a physical prototype first. I would create the base size spec (usually the middle size, so a M or size 6) from that physical garment, and then grade the spec up and down based on how much bigger/smaller I want each of the sizes to be.
That’s the basis of it, but creating graded specs is a little more detailed than that! So let’s go step by step on how to create them (including some handy shortcuts!😉), and the best tools to use.
Let’s get started!
Understanding the Basics of Graded Specs in a Tech Pack
Before you can create graded specs, let’s make sure we’re talking about the same thing. Because terminology varies, and some people confuse them with size charts.
What are graded specs in a garment tech pack?
A graded spec is a chart of your garment’s measurements across all sizes. It helps ensure that each aspect of your design is adjusted across different sizes while preserving the original style and proportions.
Basically, graded specs make sure that your design looks just as good on an XS as it will on someone who rocks an XXL.
Graded specs are a key part of a tech pack and help clothing factories understand the specific measurements for each size. With a detailed spec sheet, there’s no room for confusion in sizing.
Difference between a graded spec and a size chart in the fashion industry
The key lies in your audience – who are you communicating to?
Graded specs translate sizes to manufacturers and pattern makers, ensuring consistent fit across your design.
Size charts cater to customers, providing basic body measurements for various standardized sizes like small, medium, large, and so on.
TLDR; a size chart helps customers find their ideal fit (like when you’re shopping online!), graded specs offer a detailed guide for factories to construct your garments.
For reference, here’s step-by-step how to create a size chart for your fashion brand (with a free template).
Key Components of a Graded Spec in a Fashion Tech Pack
Now, let’s break down the graded specs into its 3 key details.
- Points of Measure (POM)
- Tolerance
- Graded sizing
Point Of Measure (POM)
Every garment construction process begins with measurements taken from specific points of the clothing item – these are called your Points Of Measures or POMs.
POMs are the key points in a garment that determine how it will fit on the body. Common POMs include bust, waist, hip, shoulder width, sleeve length, and more.
There is no one size fits all instruction manual to learning POMs and it’s a skill you’ll develop over time throughout your fashion career. If you want to dig deeper on this topic, you can head on over to my Ultimate Guide to Measuring Garments and Creating Points of Measure.
Tolerance
Tolerances are (standardized) acceptable variation allowed in measurements during the garment production process.
Have you ever sewn something? If so, you know that it’s nearly impossible to get the measurements 100% perfect. And your clothing factory sewers are humans just like you!
Setting appropriate tolerances ensures that the final garments will fit right but also won’t drive the clothing factory nuts. Too much wiggle room can lead to inconsistent sizing while too little could stifle factory operations leading to cost overruns and delays.
Look at the below chart as an example. The waist has a tolerance of ⅜” while the waistband has a tolerance of ⅛”. This means the waistband could measure 14 ⅛” (13 ¾ + ⅜) or 13 ⅜” (13 ¾ – ⅜) and still be “within tolerance.”
| POM (Point of Measure) | Tolerance (+/-) | Medium |
| ½ waist at top edge | ⅜ | 13 ¾ |
| Waistband width at CF | ⅛ | 3 ¼ |
Typically, larger measurements will have larger tolerances, and smaller measurements will have smaller tolerances, like the example above.
Graded sizing
The graded sizing is arguably one of THE most important components when developing detailed spec sheets in a fashion tech pack.
Mostly done by technical designers or pattern makers / cutters, it involves determining the specific measurements for each point in your garment across your chosen size range. This step ensures that your designs fit perfectly for every customer, no matter their size.
Step-by-Step Guide to Creating a Graded Spec
- Understand your design
- Gather the measurements
- Confirm the size range
- Determine the grade rules and tolerances
- Calculate the measurements for each size
1. Understand your design
There is no one-size-fits-all answer to this. Each garment is unique so you have to take time to analyze the key features, style lines, and any design details that may affect the fit across different sizes.
Ask yourself, if I’m the one constructing this garment, what POMs will I need to make it accurate?
Of course, there are also a few guides out there that you can use as a starting point. The Spec Manual by Michele Wesen Bryant and Diane DeMers is a great reference (and only one that I know of!) to help you start making specs for your garment.
2. Gather the measurements
Accurate measurements lay the foundation for seamless grading across different sizes. Make sure to cover all your POMs and input the correct values for each one.
While some seasoned technical designers create their measurements from scratch, it’s also common to use existing garments for reference when creating measurements for a new design.
Pro-tip: In the fashion industry, it’s a common practice to start from the middle size when creating graded specs. For example, if you are making a garment across a size range of small, medium, and large. Using the middle size, medium, ensures that you have a well-balanced starting point for scaling both up and down.
3. Confirm the size range
Determine the size range you’ll be offering, like small, medium, large, etc. This step is crucial for setting your grading rules later. Brands with limited sizing might use larger grading increments, while those with more size options can choose smaller increments.
For example, let’s say Brand A only offers medium and large sizes but aims to cater to a wider range of clients. To achieve this, they use larger grading increments, around 2-3 inches, to adjust the width of their garments across sizes.
Meanwhile, Brand B who offers all sizes from XXS to XXL, can choose smaller grading increments like 1 inch to adjust across sizes.
4. Determine the grade rules and tolerances
Decide on the grading increments for each point of measurement. Consider factors such as body ease, fit preferences, fabric, and standard size intervals.
Some fashion brands have their own standardized grading rules, but for independent freelance fashion designers, you may have to set up these rules if you’re working with a startup brand that doesn’t have size requirements established yet.
Pro-tip: Yes, you can be a freelance technical designer! If you’re unsure how that process works, here’s how you work remotely as a TD, step-by-step.
Similarly, set tolerances to allow for minor variations during manufacturing.
5. Calculate measurements for each size
Using your grading rules, apply the adjustments to the base size measurements and calculate the values for the other sizes. Software tools like Excel can do this easily with formulas, making grading more efficient.
If you want more info on this, there’s a bunch of applications out there that will help you finish this step. I’ll cover them in more detail in a bit!
In my free tech pack template, there’s a graded spec with measurement formulas built right in so everything auto calculates. Grab it now!
Pro Tip: Make sure to double check the values even if you’re using software. If you have a good manufacturer, they can catch grading mistakes, but if you’re not as lucky, you might end up with a poor fitting prototype.
Using Tech Pack Software to Create Graded Specs
Creating graded specs may seem like a daunting task, but there are tools that can make the process waaay simpler. So, if you’re still doing your graded specs the old-school way, you’ll love these tips!
Spreadsheets: The basic tool for tech packs
Microsoft Excel or Google Sheets are pretty straightforward and easy to use when grading designs in detailed tech packs.
Spreadsheets are flexible – but since they’re general tools and not specifically designed for garment construction, be prepared for manual work like setting the formatting yourself the first time.
Pro Tip: Templatize everything! It takes time upfront but trust me – it’ll save loads of work and ensure consistency across all your designs.
You can make templates for similar types of garments such as t-shirts, button-downs, pants, skirts, etc! No need to start from scratch every time!
Snag my free tech pack template and use it as a foundation to get started. If you need something more specific, you also download my FREE t-shirt tech pack template, jeans template, and hoodie template complete with technical sketches, graded specs, callouts, BOM, and more!)
Tech Pack Software: Advanced solution for detailed tech packs
If you want something more specialized, consider using tech pack software. These programs offer a lot of handy tools such as automated grade rule calculations, digital sketching capabilities – some even help with assigning style numbers.
If you want to learn more about tools and software used for fashion tech packs, I cover this in more detail in my Tech Pack Software Comparison Guide.
Now, all that’s left is to insert your graded specs into your tech pack!
