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Types of Weave Structures

Grab all 5 weaves as Illustrator repeating patterns to add to your designs.

If you’re designing wovens, you will most likely need to define the weave structure that you want your factory to use.  There are thousands of different patterns that can be woven, but there are some basic ones that you should be familiar with to start.

Common Weave Structures

Below are some common structures including a plain weave (often seen in plaids), basketweave (oxford shirts use this one), twill (denim uses this structure), herringbone (common in suiting and shirting), and houndstooth (frequently seen in wools).

{Sew Heidi} Types of Weave Structures

Warp vs Weft

Yarns that run from right to left (horiztonally) are called weft yarns. I always remember this because left is like weft.

Yarns that run from top to bottom (vertically) are called warp yarns.

Hands-on Weaving Exercise

In a textile class that I took, we learned about weave structures by taping actual warp and weft yarns to paper and making small woven patterns. It’s a great exercise if you’re still confused about how the yarns work together to form different patterns. This article shows a variety of different designs woven with strips of paper.

About the Author

Heidi {Sew Heidi}

With no fashion degree or connections, Heidi’s start in the industry was with her own brand. By her mid-20s, she had grown it to $40,000+ in revenue. Despite that ‘success,’ she was left broke and burnt. Next, she landed her dream fashion design job at a lifestyle brand in Denver, CO. But the toxic offices gave her too much anxiety. So, in 2009, she started her business as a freelance fashion designer. After a lot of trial and error (she literally made $0 in her first year!), she figured out how to find well-paying clients, have freedom in her day, and make money doing the work she loved in fashion. She grew her freelance business to $100,000+ a year working a comfortable 35 hours a week. In 2013, Heidi started Successful Fashion Designer. She has reached hundreds of thousands of fashion designers, TDs, PDs, pattern makers, and more around the world through her educational videos, podcast episodes, books, live trainings, and more. Heidi’s signature program, Freelance Accelerator: from Surviving to Thriving (FAST) has generated over $1 Million in revenue and helped almost 1,000 fashion designers escape toxic jobs and do work they love in fashion.

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