Garment construction defects can be anything from a misaligned seam to a poorly inserted zipper. A “construction” defect (as opposed to a fabric defect) is anything that is wrong with how the garment was sewn, constructed, or assembled.

I’ve come across these defects almost daily when I was working as a fashion designer for 15+ years. Whether you’re a freelance fashion designer, starting your own brand, or working in-house, you need to know common garment construction defects and the best practices to prevent them during manufacturing.

Most Common Garment Construction Defects and Their Causes

Here’s a quick list of the most common garment construction defects that you have to watch out for. 

• Misaligned seams
• Poorly finished edges
• Incorrect order sewn
• Closure issues (faulty zippers, buttons, etc.)
• Puckering
• Seam slippage
• Open seam
• Roping hem

Misaligned seams

A personal pet peeve of mine – misaligned seams occur when the edges of different fabric panels don’t to match up evenly.

Causes of misaligned seams: inaccuracies during cutting and sewing, poorly aligned panels, imprecise cutting, uneven stitching

Poorly finished edges

Poorly finished edges are defects found on the inside of the garment, like rough or frayed fabric edges that are inadequately sewn. This gives the garments an unfinished and untidy look. 

Causes of poorly finished edges: poor workmanship, not using proper seam finishing techniques, skipping edge stitching or serging

Incorrect order sewn

Sewing fabric pieces in the wrong order can lead to distorted proportions, unbalanced silhouettes, and an unprofessional look – affecting the overall garment design. For example, finishing the bottom hem of a skirt before the side seams might result in the seam allowances peeking from below – resulting in an unpolished look.

Causes of incorrect order sewn: misinterpretation of pattern / sewing instructions

Closure issues (faulty zippers, buttons, etc.)

Zippers that refuse to zip smoothly or buttons that pop open unexpectedly, compromising the functionality of the garment.

Causes of closure issues: poor material quality, incorrect attachment methods

Puckering

One of the most common garment construction issues, puckering on clothing are defects found on seams that have a wrinkled or gathered fabric appearance – indicating tension inconsistencies during sewing.

Causes of puckering: incorrect thread tension, improper handling of fabric while stitching, mixing fabrics with differing properties, inadequate seam allowances, improper stitching techniques

Seam slippage

One of the most difficult garment construction defects to spot – seam slippage occurs when fabric layers in a seam separate, creating gaps and weakening the garment’s construction. To check for seam slippage, you can gently pull on the seams and observe if the fabric begins to separate.

Causes of seam slippage: using loosely woven fabrics, mixing fabrics with differing properties, inadequate seam allowances, improper stitching techniques

Pro Tip: When you’re working with delicate fabrics like silk, satin, and chiffon, it’s crucial to be extra careful about a seam slippage defect. In extreme cases, if changing the construction technique doesn’t do the trick, it might be worth considering switching to a different fabric altogether.

Open seam

Open seams refer to stitches that break open, leaving gaps in the seam line.

Causes of open seam: weak stitching, insufficient seam allowances, using unsuitable thread

Roping hem

Another common garment construction defect, roping hem occurs when the hem of a garment appears uneven or forms a wavy, rope-like appearance instead of lying flat. 

One of the ways I spot whether a garment is cheap or not is through checking the hem’s appearance. I love a crisp hem!

Causes of roping hem: incorrect handling of fabric while hemming, inadequate pressing, incorrect hemming techniques

How to Troubleshoot And Prevent Garment Construction Defects

Select the appropriate fabrics and construction methods

When it comes to preventing construction issues, the choice of fabric plays a huge role. Opt for fabrics that are of great quality and less likely to suffer from defects like seam slippage or puckering.

By selecting fabrics that inherently resist common construction hiccups, you’re already one step ahead. 

And while you might not be handling the sewing machines yourself, you can influence the construction techniques used. Collaborate closely with your manufacturers to ensure they’re using suitable techniques for the fabric. 

For example, if seam slippage is a concern, inquire about using reinforcing stitches or using stronger seam constructions like flat felled seams. 

Pro Tip: Quick trips to clothing stores of brands known for top-notch quality is a great way to learn different types of construction methods. I can vouch for this first hand – as I did this a lot when I was just starting out. And yes, I might have snapped a few reference pics while the salesperson wasn’t looking! 👀

Create Detailed Tech Packs

Make sure to clearly include all construction details in your tech pack.

Specify the appropriate fabric type, seam construction, and details like adding reinforcement stitches.For example, if you are designing a t-shirt and want to add topstitching reinforcement to the neckline, include “with ⅛” SNTS (single needle topstitch)” on your tech pack call-out.

With a well-prepared tech pack, you can address potential construction issues before they even arise. 

If you need help in this department, I got you! Check out my Step-by-step Tech Pack Guide (with free templates).

Inspect the sample garments for construction defects

The purpose of having a sample-making process is that you can catch defects before production. 

Upon receiving the sample, carefully check the garment’s seams, edges, and closures from inside out. Don’t be afraid to pull on the seams to check for seam slippage and open seams. Be mindful and extra vigilant of sneaky garment defects that can potentially ruin the design you worked so hard for.

If you still don’t feel confident about the construction quality of your garment samples, request additional prototypes using different techniques or fabric variations, then evaluate their performance once again. 

Call-out garment construction defects in your sample evaluation form

Document defects in your tech pack, including where it occurs on the garment, what type of defect, and ways to mitigate it if possible. This way you can keep track of all the issues in a more organized manner, without having to go back and forth.

For example, if your garment has misaligned underarm seams, send a zoomed in photo, mark the defect, and add a description like “ensure proper alignment of seams when attaching the sleeve.”

Implement quality control measures

In these instances, conducting quality control practices can act as your shield in making sure no defect goes unchecked.

In the garment industry, there are several possible check points for implementing QC measures namely – pre-production quality check, in-line quality control, and post production inspection. Depending on the size of the project and budget, you may deploy one or a few of these quality control measures.

Pre-production Quality Check

Before manufacturing begins, ensure that the fabric, threads, and initial stitching meet high standards. Additionally, make sure that your manufacturers are ensuring proper machine maintenance on their equipment. 

These steps set the foundation to prevent issues in the later stages of production.

In-line Quality Control

During the manufacturing process, your QC team can oversee each step to maintain consistent quality. They check for any discrepancies and ensure that your standards are upheld throughout production. 

Post Production Inspection

Once manufacturing is complete, a final review takes place. Every detail, from seams to stitches, is checked to identify any imperfections before the garments are ready to hit the market.

Defects Beyond Garment Construction

To ensure your production goes smoothly and the finished product is exactly what you want, you also need to watch out for Common Fabric Defects and Common Stitching Defects.

I know it can seem like a lot, but catching these defects early on in sampling is how you make great garments, minimize returns, and create happy customers.

You got this!