GSM (grams per square meter) measures fabric weight and indicates how dense or light a fabric is. A heavier fabric such as denim will have a higher GSM, while a lighter fabric like chiffon will have a lower GSM.
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Fabric Weight Chart
Fabric weight is typically measured in:
- GSM (grams per square meter): Weight of 1m² of fabric.
- oz/yd² (ounces per square yard): The imperial equivalent.
What GSM Should You Use in Garments?
Fabric weight influences how a garment drapes, functions, and lasts. Imagine a kimono made of cotton voile vs a jacket made of heavyweight denim. The cotton kimono will feel airy and drapey while the denim jacket will have more structure and can withstand wear and tear as intended.
Here’s a guide on choosing the right one for your garment:
Lightweight Fabrics
Lightweight fabrics like taffeta, silk, voile, and tulle give your designs that delicate, airy flair with good drape. These types of fabrics are perfect for hot weather and casual clothing such as dresses, tops, and are also often used as linings and interfacing.
Midweight Fabrics
Midweight fabrics are used when you’re after something tough enough to handle daily use but still feel comfortable. These are used for your everyday t-shirts, khakis, button down shirts, and lightweight jackets.
Heavyweight Fabrics
When you need a fabric that can stand up to serious wear and tear, heavyweight fabrics are the go-to. This includes denim for jeans, canvas for bags and outerwear, and wool for winter coats. These fabrics have a substantial hand and a lot of body, making them perfect for structured garments and accessories like work wear and outerwear.
Cotton Fabric Weight Comparison
Even within the same fiber type, fabric weight varies depending on the structure density, yarn size, and other variables. Here’s an example of a cotton blend fabric in different weights:
FAQ
- How is fabric weight measured?
A sample of fabric is weighed after being cut into a specific size (typically 100 cm²), rested for 24 hours, and then multiplied to estimate the GSM of a full square meter. Here’s a simple video of how to measure fabric GSM using a fabric sample puncher and scale.
- Does thicker fabric mean higher fabric weight / GSM?
Not always. Fabric weight depends on density, not just thickness. For example, velvet is thinner than neoprene but has a higher GSM because its fibers are more densely packed. Wool, despite feeling thick, can have a lower GSM than synthetic fleece due to its fiber composition.
- What is the typical GSM of a T-shirt?
A standard everyday T-shirt typically falls between 160-195 GSM, offering a balance of breathability and durability. Lightweight tees can be 130-150 GSM, while heavyweight ones can go up to 200 GSM or more for a thicker, structured feel.
