Episode Overview
Whether you’re new to the fashion industry or you’ve only worked for bigger brands, sourcing fabrics and trims for smaller brands can be a daunting task for many freelancers. How do you find fabric suppliers with low minimums? How do you know if a fabric supplier is any good? And what are the basic steps to buying fabric for a small fashion brand?
In this episode of the Successful Fashion Freelancer Podcast, I’m once again chatting with Jay Arbetman, the founder of The Sourcing District. Since he started helping out with the family coat business at age 14, Jay has accumulated 50 years of experience in the fashion industry. A lot has changed since the last time I interviewed him in 2017, especially when it comes to startup brands, sustainability, and freelancing in fashion.
Don’t miss The Complete Guide to Sourcing Fabric with Low Minimums.
Episode Highlights
Introduction and Jay Arbetman’s Background
- Heidi introduces Jay Arbetman, founder of The Sourcing District in Oak Park, Illinois.
- Jay specializes in sourcing textiles from US-based suppliers with low minimums and offers continuity with dedicated inventory.
Sourcing Fabric for Freelancers
- Jay and Heidi discuss how freelancers—especially those moving from corporate to independent work—can effectively source fabrics.
- They touch on the challenges of sourcing without industry contacts or proximity to a fashion hub.
Types of Suppliers and Their Roles
- Jay breaks down the various supplier types:
- Retailers
- Jobbers (buy and resell existing fabric)
- Converters (finish gray goods)
- Importers (maintain dedicated inventory)
- He explains how understanding supplier types helps freelancers navigate sourcing more confidently.
Importance of Trade Shows
- Trade shows like DG Expo (now thetradeshow.com) and LA Textile are highlighted as essential for indie designers and freelancers.
- Jay encourages in-person networking to find reliable suppliers and stay updated on fabric options.
Freight Considerations in Sourcing
- Jay stresses the importance of factoring in freight costs when choosing suppliers.
- He suggests sourcing regionally when possible to cut down on costs and lead times.
Sustainability in Textiles
- Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in sourcing decisions.
- Jay discusses certifications like Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and shares insights on sourcing ethically produced and sustainable fabrics.
Navigating the Sourcing Process
- Jay outlines the step-by-step process: contacting suppliers, requesting samples, understanding inventory, and negotiating pricing.
- He emphasizes clarity and communication throughout the sourcing workflow.
Pricing and Quality Considerations
- Jay explains that going for the cheapest fabric can backfire.
- He encourages freelancers to consider total cost, including freight and potential losses, and to prioritize quality and supplier reliability.
Collaborative Ecosystem
- Jay promotes an industry culture of collaboration where freelancers, clients, and suppliers support each other.
- Transparency and strong relationships are key to long-term success.
Protecting Freelancer Interests
- Freelancers should be open with clients about sourcing but highlight the value-add they provide beyond fabric selection, such as development expertise and vendor management.
Final Advice from Jay
- Jay wraps up with practical advice: do your research, continue learning, and build a strong network.
- Leveraging knowledge and relationships helps freelancers offer better service and grow sustainably.
Contact Information
- Jay shares his contact details and encourages freelancers to reach out with sourcing questions or to start building relationships with ethical, US-based suppliers.
Final Thoughts
- The episode closes with a discussion on the importance of understanding the full cost structure of textile sourcing—from fabric quality to freight—so freelancers can make smart, informed decisions.
Key Questions and Responses
1. How do freelancers source fabrics for their clients, especially when coming from a corporate background?
- Jay explains that the industry has become less centralized and more diverse, with suppliers spread across the country. He emphasizes that freelancers need to find suppliers who offer small batch manufacturing, which is quite different from large-scale production typically sourced from Asia.
2. What are some reliable ways to find fabric suppliers when you don’t live in a fashion hub like New York or Los Angeles?
- Jay suggests freelancers can start by contacting reps like himself. He mentions there are only a few reps in the U.S. doing what he does, and they can offer valuable information. He also highlights specialized trade shows like the now-renamed DG Expo (The Trade Shows) and LA Textile as valuable resources for indie designers and freelancers.
3. What are the different types of fabric suppliers, and which ones should freelancers focus on?
- The interview delves into the distinctions between retailers, jobbers, converters, and importers. Jay stresses that freelancers should avoid retailers due to lack of wholesale pricing and continuity. Instead, freelancers should focus on converters and importers that offer consistent inventory and better pricing structures.
4. How should freelancers go about managing the initial contact and negotiation process with suppliers?
- Jay encourages freelancers to be as transparent as possible and to not worry excessively about sharing supplier information. He assures that good suppliers and reps will not undermine the freelancer’s role and will respect existing client relationships. He also discusses practical steps, such as obtaining color cards and sampling fabrics.
5. What considerations should freelancers keep in mind regarding sustainability and ethical sourcing?
- Jay notes the significant increase in the availability of sustainable fabrics and ethical sourcing certifications, such as Oeko-Tex Standard 100. He advises freelancers to ensure their suppliers are transparent and to check for certifications and ethical sourcing practices
6. What should freelancers inform their clients about the “all-in cost” of materials?
- Jay highlights the importance of considering factors beyond just the base price of the fabric, such as freight costs, fabric width, and potential finishing processes. He urges freelancers to give clients a complete picture of the costs involved.
7. Should freelancers be concerned about clients bypassing them if they know the suppliers?
- Jay suggests that hiding supplier information often causes more harm than good. He points out that the value freelancers bring to the table goes far beyond just sourcing fabric; they offer essential services like pattern making, fit adjustments, and overall project management that clients usually cannot handle on their own.
About Jay & The Sourcing District
Jay Arbetman started working in the women’s outerwear business in 1965, picking orders and unloading trucks at the family coat business. When he was 21 (1972) he started working full time as a salesman in the Midwest selling the family’s extensive line of coats and jackets. After stops in the world of retail women’s specialty stores, Jay moved to New York in 1980 and for ten years ran the family showroom, bought fabric and went to F.I.T. at night studying Textile Science and Marketing Management. For the balance of the 1990s Jay manufactured and imported outerwear and sportswear. For the last 15 years, Jay’s company, The Sourcing District, has been the preeminent fashion textile and garment construction necessity sales agency serving hundreds of independent designers and product developers. Jay lives and works in Oak Park, Illinois with his wife, two daughters, two dogs, and two cats as well as a seemingly endless collection of guitars.
Loved this episode? Don’t miss my previous interview with Jay on Episode 20: The Step-by-Step Guide to Sourcing Fabric for your Fashion Brand!
Resources & People Mentioned
- Free resources for SFF Podcast listeners!
- The Complete Guide to Sourcing Fabric with Low Minimums
- Check out The Sourcing District
- Connect with Jay on LinkedIn
- Follow The Sourcing District on Instagram
- Want to work with Jay? Email him at jay [at] thesourcingdistrict.com or call 1-708-386-8586
- The Fabric Shows, formerly DG Expo