Episode Overview
If you want to see your clothing line and accessories in the hands of more than just a few customers, you need to understand how to get your clothing designs into production. On this episode of the Successful Fashion Designer podcast, patternmaker and designer Xochil Herrera Scheer of The Chicago Patternmaker draws on over a decade of experience to share what she’s learned about factories, clothing line production, and bringing your designs to life!
Episode Highlights
Introduction to Successful Fashion Designer Podcast
- Heidi introduces the podcast and explains its purpose: to break down barriers in the competitive fashion industry by providing valuable insights from industry experts.
- She introduces the guest, Xochil Herrera Scheer, who runs the Chicago Pattern Maker.
Xochil’s Background and Start in the Industry
- Xochil talks about her company, the Chicago Pattern Maker, which offers pattern making and product development services.
- She describes her early career, working at a small boutique in Chicago, and how she transitioned to starting her own business after the boutique closed in 2009.
Initial Steps in the Product Development Process
- Xochil explains the first step in the process is design and sourcing – sketching, refining sketches, and sourcing materials.
- She talks about the importance of using the real fabric for prototypes and the steps in pattern making and prototype development.
Advice on Approaching Service Providers
- Xochil offers advice on how to approach service providers professionally, emphasizing the importance of detailed initial communication.
- She shares tips on being prepared with sketches, tech packs, and an understanding of the target market and price points.
Networking and Building Relationships
- Xochil discusses the value of networking and relationship-building in the fashion industry.
- She shares her experience of speaking at events and staying active on social media to build her presence and credibility.
Grading and Patterns Explanation
- Xochil delves into the technical aspects of grading and pattern making.
- She discusses the importance of choosing the right fit model and understanding the differences between base sizes and grading for different sizes.
Challenges in the Development Process
- Some common challenges in the development process include managing multiple prototypes and the importance of effective communication.
- Xochil stresses the significance of being organized and prepared for potential hiccups.
Factory and Production Insights
- The conversation touches on when to approach factories and the importance of having a tech pack and prototype ready.
- Xochil shares insights on production timelines, minimums, and the need for clear communication with factories.
Final Stages of Product Development
- The discussion moves to the final stages of product development, including pre-production and top-of-production samples.
- Xochil explains the importance of these samples in ensuring quality and consistency before full production.
Wrap Up and Conclusion
- Heidi and Xochil wrap up the conversation, emphasizing the importance of testing and multiple iterations in product development.
- Xochil leaves listeners with parting advice on expecting and managing development challenges.
Key Questions and Responses
1. How did you kick start your career in the fashion industry and begin your business?
- Xochil began her career by working in a small boutique in Chicago, performing duties like retail management, sewing an in-house line of handbags, and redesigning garments. The boutique closed in 2009 due to the recession. She then decided to launch her own business, the Chicago Pattern Maker. She began networking to find clients, combining this with part-time jobs in tailoring and pattern making for another boutique until her business grew to where it is today, with a full team.
2. What is the process like when someone approaches you for pattern making and development services?
- The process starts with design and sourcing. She refines sketches and creates initial tech packs. They determine what the designs will be made from before moving to pattern making or prototyping. Real fabric is often used for the first prototypes to get accurate results. The overall process involves several steps including fitting revisions, grading by a partner, and finally liaising with factories for production.
3. What advice can you give to designers to be well-prepared when approaching a service provider like yourself?
- Designers should send a detailed initial email outlining what they want to create (e.g., the types of garments and the market they’re targeting). This includes providing initial sketches, tech packs if available, and some background information about their designs. This helps service providers know if they can take on the job. Properly preparing saves time and ensures a smoother process.
4. What are some common mistakes designers make during the prototype phase, and how can they avoid them?
- One common mistake is trying to prototype all similar styles at once instead of perfecting one and then applying lessons learned to others. Another is forgetting other business tasks like creating labels and hang tags which can lead to delays. Designers need to remember they are the project managers for their collection and need to keep track of all these components.
5. When should designers start thinking about factories and production?
- Designers should wait until they have a basic tech pack and their first prototype before approaching factories. Factories usually need to see the tech pack and a sample before they can engage seriously. Mentioning in initial communication that they have a tech pack, pattern, and are able to provide a sample makes designers appear more professional and prepared.
6. What are preproduction (PP) and top-of-production (TOP) samples, and why are they important?
- A preproduction sample is the final sample made by the factory with the real fabric, trims, and finishes before production. It’s the last chance to catch errors. The TOP sample is pulled from the production line after everything is cut but usually before everything is sewn. It ensures the initial bulk production matches the approved preproduction sample.
7. What are some additional tips for designers managing their production timelines?
- Always add buffer time and be aware of holidays, both domestic and international, that might affect production schedules. Communication is vital; designers should maintain open lines of communication with all parties involved to manage expectations and address issues promptly. The key is to stay organized and have clear, documented processes.
About Xochil:
Xochil has worked with clients starting with everything from a full tech pack and detailed CAD drawings, to those who just have a basic concept and a dream. She talks about how these different clients can approach the process, what they should do before approaching a freelancer or factory, and how they can get the best result through the process. (She even recommends everyone she works with read Kathleen Fasanella’s book on sewn product manufacturing to educate themselves on what it takes!)
Resources & People Mentioned
- Free resources for SFD Podcast listeners!
- The Chicago Patternmaker
- Say hi to Xochil on:
- Xochil recommends all her clients read this book
- Heidi’s interview with Jay Arbetman of The Sourcing District