Episode Overview
Shilo Byrd has been in the industry for a decade and a half, and she knows her stuff. She’s a freelance pattern maker, product developer, supply chain & production consultant, and a contributor at Vogue Business. In this episode of the SFD Podcast, Shilo chats about everything from understanding fit and the best way to learn new skills, to networking in fashion and her advice for starting your own brand. Whether you’re a freelancer, starting your own brand, or even just curious about the fashion industry, this episode has something for you!
Episode Highlights
Introduction to Shilo Byrd
- Heidi introduces Shilo Byrd and gives an overview of her career journey, highlighting the scope of their conversation which will cover Shilo’s diverse experiences, from starting as a pattern maker to running her own design studio.
Shilo Byrd’s Early Fashion Involvement
- Shilo discusses her background, growing up with a mother who was a custom bridal dressmaker, and her early exposure to sewing and fashion.
Decision to Enter Fashion School
- Despite initial reluctance to work in the fashion industry, Shilo explains her transition from working as an auto mechanic to attending FIT in New York, studying pattern making and technical design.
First Fashion Industry Roles
- Shilo talks about her initial experiences in the New York fashion industry, working as a permalancer, her early projects, and how she landed her first few clients.
Starting Shilo Byrd Studio
- Shilo narrates the evolution of her freelance work into starting her own design studio, the challenges she faced, and the subsequent expansion of her business including hiring employees and taking on small-run production.
Freelancing and Setting Rates
- Shilo gives insights into the mistakes and learnings regarding freelancing rates and the importance of market research to set competitive prices.
Shift to Los Angeles and Major Career Changes
- Shilo discusses her move to Los Angeles, the cultural shift in the fashion industry from New York to LA, and her first full-time senior pattern maker role.
Importance of Fit
- Shilo emphasizes the importance of fit in fashion, sharing her expertise on pattern making and fitting processes, including the common issues and how she solves them.
Shilo’s Approach to Fittings
- Shilo offers practical advice on recognizing fit issues such as drag lines and side seam balance, providing tips for both shoppers and emerging brands.
Navigating Financial Aspects in Business
- Reflecting on her business experience, Shilo highlights the importance of understanding and managing finances, and the mistake of not diving into the numbers early on.
Networking in the Fashion Industry
- Shilo emphasizes the value of networking, defining it as building relationships, being nice, and staying in touch with industry contacts.
Cost Implications of Starting a Brand
- Shilo explains the financial realities of starting a fashion brand, elaborating on how making affordable products requires significant upfront investment compared to luxury items.
Wrap Up and Contact Information
- Heidi and Shilo talk about connecting on social media, and the potential for future discussions. Shilo shares her social media handles and her website for further engagement.
Key Questions and Responses
1. Where did your fashion career start? Did you go to fashion school?
- Shilo Byrd shared that her fashion career started by growing up in the business as her mother was a custom bridal dressmaker. She articulated her early sewing experiences from a young age. Despite initially not wanting to work in the industry, she eventually decided to attend fashion school after realizing her passion. She moved to New York, attended FIT, and studied pattern making and technical design.
2. What did you do in the meantime before deciding to go to fashion school?
- Shilo revealed that she worked as an auto mechanic. She took an auto repair class to fix her van, discovered she loved technical problem-solving, and went on to work at Land Rover in Seattle and Portland. However, she eventually realized that she wasn’t happy in that career and wanted to pursue fashion instead.
3. How did you transition from being a permalancer to starting your own design studio?
- Shilo recounted how freelancing opportunities started coming in from people she met while working as a permalancer. She realized she was getting more work and making better money freelancing on her own, leading her to eventually open her own design studio. Initially, it was just her, but as she got more work, the business grew, and she hired additional help.
4. Can you talk about the process of setting prices as a freelancer?
- Shilo admitted she initially made up prices based on what sounded fair, which was often too low. She emphasized the importance of not charging clients for one’s learning curve and mentioned eventually doing market research by directly asking other pattern makers about their rates. She also highlighted the need for freelancers to charge for all aspects of their service, including consultations and meetings.
5. Why is there such a big learning curve in pattern making, and how long does it take to get good at it?
- Shilo discussed the extensive amount of time it takes to become a proficient pattern maker, mentioning it took her about eight years to feel confident and aware of what she didn’t know initially. She emphasized that someone in the field is constantly learning and that mastering fit, a critical part of the job, comes through years of experience and standing in fittings with more senior professionals.
6. What insights can you offer about fitting garments correctly?
- Shilo explained that fitting involves looking for drag lines and balance at the side seams. She highlighted the importance of experience in fittings and diagnosing fit issues. She suggested practical tips like examining fit lines and side seams when trying on clothes and diagnosing where problems may lie through these observations.
7. What is one thing people never ask you about the fashion industry that you wish they would?
- Shilo wished people would ask about the general scale of money needed to start a fashion brand, noting that many have misconceptions about costs. She explained that highly affordable clothing requires significant upfront capital due to the need for large-volume orders. In contrast, high-end designer brands can start with considerably less capital though they also need to ensure the quality matches their higher price point.
About Shilo:
In the time since she studied pattern making at FIT, Shilo has worked with brands from midsize to brand new startups, in pretty much every category. While she’s done the bulk of her work in elevated or luxury markets, she has a huge depth of knowledge on how clothing gets made.
All the info she shares is valuable to freelancers, startup brands, and anyone who’s interested in how the fashion industry really works (hint: it does not involve weekly trips to Mood!). This interview touches on all of that and more.
Resources & People Mentioned
- Free resources for SFD Podcast listeners!
- The Ultimate Guide to Being a Successful Fashion Freelancer
- Check out Shilo’s work at ShiloByrd.com
- Follow Shilo’s Instagram (don’t miss the runway critiques in her stories!)
- Read Shilo’s articles for Vogue Business
- Enjoy Shilo’s musings on Twitter